Thoughts on death and surfing

Posted by Ken Campbell February 9, 2011 0 Comment 838 views

I am back in California once again. My mother is unwell and in the hospital. As her only son, my place is here for now.

I was here just a few weeks ago on much the same mission. I found it was good to have the board with me, worth carrying it with me all the way down I-5, through the rain of Oregon and the high winds of the central valley. I surfed two sessions a day the last time I was here and I plan to do the same again this time.

It’s hydrotherapy. This promises to be a difficult visit. I’m depending on the healing power of the ocean to provide some perspective and relief.

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