Thoughts on death and surfing
I was here just a few weeks ago on much the same mission. I found it was good to have the board with me, worth carrying it with me all the way down I-5, through the rain of Oregon and the high winds of the central valley. I surfed two sessions a day the last time I was here and I plan to do the same again this time.
It’s hydrotherapy. This promises to be a difficult visit. I’m depending on the healing power of the ocean to provide some perspective and relief.