More thoughts on death and surfing

Posted by Ken Campbell February 13, 2011 0 Comment 671 views

Sometimes I ride the wave too long. Not that anything real bad happens, it’s just that if I would have kicked out of the thing instead of riding it all the way into skinny water, I wouldn’t have to mess around with the kelp in the shallows. Or the rocks beating on my feet and shins. The ride would still be a good one, just not as long. And the part of the ride that I could cut off, the broken, trashy part at the end, that’s the least enjoyable part of the experience anyway.

Ah, but sometimes I just want the long ride, regardless of how it ends up. In fact, when I’m actually on the wave, moving from one end of the board to the other, busy working the wave and trying to stay one step ahead of the soup, I’m not thinking about the end. I just want it to last forever. Or for a lot longer than it does, anyway.

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